Christmas in Guayaquil: Niños Malcreados (?)

The plan is to have two parts to this post, Guayaquil and Sùa, however, I have to get back to Hostal Theresa as soon as I get a text that my next visitor is here, so I dont promise that I will be able to stick to that plan. The thing is that I live in Guayaquil, the BIG CITY with the airport and the major bus terminal. So I have had lots of visitors lately at my little home. Its fun, but it means that I am getting to my Omnibus New Years Beach Party late, and that I dont have lots of toilet paper. Ahhh, I do it to myself.

So Christmas in Ecuador. You would think that for a country that is so Christian that Christmas would be a crazy big deal. With the Mujeres, the phrase "Dios Bendiga" --God Bless You-- is used like "Aloha." In that its used for hello and goodbye...and how are you, and I am fine, and what time is it...thats an exaggeration, but Im saying, they use it a lot. I, who do not follow any specific religion (but when asked about religion, I reply that my mom goes to church every Sunday, its sort of the easy way out rather than explaining my multi-dios-religion idea), have almost caught myself saying it on more than one occasion. But no, Christmas could have easily passed without me even noticing, but for the planning of holiday parties in the barrio. I think what it boils down to is that folks here, at least folks that I know here, dont have a whole lot of dinero. For that reason, the focus on buying presents, giving presents, getting presents and all that goes away. And really, when you think about it, thats what all the hoopla in the States comes down to at this time of year. Except maybe in the churches. I am sure that in churches, both here and in the States, that Christmas is discussed not as a reason to buy the latest Barbie doll, pair of shoes, or Ambercrombie distressed jeans, but as you know, the birth of Christ. So I guess maybe I didnt notice Christmas so much because I dont go to church? Maybe its just ME who was so focused on the materialness of Christmas in the States...? Who knows, whatever, on with the story.

Like I said, I was, to some extent, involved in the planning of the Christmas party in the barrio with the Mujeres. Basically the way it goes is that every year, barrios across the city request toys and candy from people and organizations with money so that they can have a party for the barrio kids. The Mujeres, being the kick ass group that they are, are in charge of such activities every year in their barrio. In the weeks and days coming up to the party, which took place on the Sunday before Christmas, I was worried that it wasnt going to happen. There were no toys, no candy. At a meeting at my main organization's office, there was a long discussion amongst the promotores that their barrios were having the same problem. That they had "ni un caramelo" (not even one piece of candy) to give out to the kids. Side-note: this conversation was immediately followed by the planning of the office Christmas party, to which they planned to buy several turkeys, beer, champagne, salads, etc. that they would all chip in to pay for. I held my tongue that perhaps the better way to spend that money--turkey is a VERY expensive meat in this country, for whatever reason--would be to, oh, I dont know, buy some candies and toys for the barrio kids? I figured this happens every year, and that maybe there was something that I was missing...

Well, there was something that I was missing. I guess I failed to take into account that, generally speaking, in this country things happen at the last minute. When I left the barrio on Friday, there were no candies, no toys, no nothing for the party. When I came back on Sunday to help set up for the party, there was a room full of stuff to give out to the kids. I have no idea where it came from. I know that the candy came from the national children's rights organization here, the toys came from...? Dont know. Someone with a good heart. When I arrived, the Mujeres' president said "¡Aqui está una mujer de la lucha!" ("Here is a woman of the struggle!" but also Mujeres de Lucha is their group name), it might have been one of the greatest moments of my life, just sayin.

We started setting up the tables, chairs and streamers outside (weird! Christmas party outside! Its hot out, no snow!). Then the president and the member in charge of organizing the gifts called me into the gift room. They explained that they had various presents for boys and girls of different ages, and a bag of candies for each child. The president was arguing that we should wrap the gifts, the other member was saying that if we wrapped them, we wouldnt be able to tell them apart and plus we didnt have any wrapping paper. I thought to myself, "I'm confused. Dont we have this party every year?? How's about we do what we did last year...and why didnt we get some wrapping paper if we knew we were giving gifts?" Out-loud, I responded that much of the fun of a child getting a gift comes from opening it, so we should wrap them. And although we dont have paper, we do have a mass amount of holiday printed plastic bags, which we could cut and use to wrap the gifts. And to tell the gifts apart? Well, we could separate them into larger plastic bags once they were wrapped, and label said bags as gifts for young kids, girls under 10, boys under 10, girls 10 and over, boys 10 and over. Wow! Best idea ever! So we got to wrapping. As we were wrapping, there was constant discussion on if a gift should be for a boy or a girl. Dolls for the girls, guns for the boys. I held back my opinions that teaching this kind of gender roles is harmful to children and society, and that giving children guns desensitizes them to violence. Rather, I gently answered that the SpongeBob cell phone could easily be played with by both boys and girls, and dutifully put the Walkie-Talkie Spy set in the "boys 10 and over" bag.

So the party gets under way complete with the Christian-Latino-Band and a prayer led by the president of the Mujeres. The kids seemed to be having a good time, and I love watching happy kids, so I was having a good time as well. That goodness was temporarily halted by one little girl. Now, I hate to say bad stuff about kids. I have never been a real "loves to work with children" kind of person, but I like kids, they are cool with me as long as they are nice. This little girl was not so nice. I had noticed her at the beginning of the party cuz she was just sitting there staring at me. I am sort of used to that because there are not a lot of new faces in the barrio, so when there is one, you get stared at. I stared back and winked at her and stuck out my tongue. Thats my usual response to kids. Usually they know I am kidding and giggle and stick their tongue back out. She didnt. She just kept staring at me.

So later during the party, I was sitting with a barrio kid that I know on my lap (after he excitedly modeled his new shoes, jeans and tshirt to me, he's so cute!) watching a Simon Says type of game. The girl, I would guess age 7or 8 is sitting next to me. She sort of hits me on the thigh. I figure shes just playing around, so I tap her back on her thigh. She hits back, closed fist this time, a little harder. This continues for some time. She gets harder with each hit, but still, I figure shes a kid, she just doesnt realize it. I was wrong. After a while, she raises her hand in the air makes a fist and looks me straight in the eye. I say, "No. No me pegas." (Don't hit me). I'm not yelling, but I am speaking sternly, so that she knows that the game is over. She responds by pinching me! What! There is NO SUCH THING as a playful pinch. I tell her no again, she pinches me again. I grab her wrist as she goes for a third, and tell her "No seas malcreada." (literally means "Dont be poorly raised," but is used as "Dont be sassy"). "No seas malcreado/a" (depending on if you are saying it to a male of female child) is a phrase used often here in Ecuador. I really disliked the phrase until right then at that moment. Mostly because its usually a parent saying it to their own child, and I'm like, what? YOU raised her! If shes poorly raised, its your own damn fault. But, c'mon, pinching? Thats malcreada if you ask me. Her response? Not shame, not saying shes sorry, nope. She gets up, and spits on me! I am NOT kidding! This little rugrat kid spit on my jeans. MALCREADA! I get up, put the kid who is still sitting on my lap on the chair, and calmly walk away. I know how to discipline and lecture kids with patience in English, but I dont know those words in Spanish, especially not when I am pissed that some freaking kid just spit on my pants.

I watched the kid for the rest of the party. She got picked on a lot by the other kids. Her hair got pulled a lot, other kids hit her, kicked her, yelled at her. She always did it back, often she was even the one that started it. But it always ended with her rolling around on the ground, screaming her lungs out that someone had hit her. The most interesting thing was that no one seemed to care. Here is this little girl in the middle of a Christmas party, screaming bloody murder while the Christian Band plays a holiday hit, and no one does a thing. I felt horrible, because usually when kids are crying in the barrio (which is a common occurrence because kids fight A LOT here, might have to do with giving guns as presents, or the fact that violence against kids here is BEYOND common place) I will go over to them, and ask what happened. They usually respond by crying harder (you know how kids are, it always hurt more when someone's paying attention) and tell me tearily that someone hit them. I ask where it hurts, look at that spot, ignore what looks like a cigarette burn on their back, and tell them I dont see anything. I rub their back and tell them its okay, and wipe off their tears with my shirt. By then the kid that hit them, usually their sibling or neighbor, comes back and gets them and they run off playing again. But with this kid, I gotta say I was a little scared. She pinched me! AND she spit on me! What if she did it again?? I wanted to help her, but I didnt know what to do that wouldnt end up in making the situation worse. I saw someone trying to console her, and she just started pounding her fists at them. The only person who could console her was the president of the Mujeres, who she seemed to know (which was weird, because I have NEVER seen this kid before, and I know her grandchildren). I get the feeling that there is some crazy bad shit going on in this kid's house. No children come out of their mother responding to life by hitting, kicking, pinching and/or spitting. Children who behave this way, in my opinion, do so because they are malcreados. They have learned this behavior from their parents and caregivers, probably from direct experience.

So what do I do? My job in the States was to take kids who were being abused and neglected by their parents away from their parents, put them into a (usually) safe home, and help their parents learn how not to treat their children in this manner. That job doesnt exist here. I am pretty sure its not illegal to abuse your children here. And if it is, its probably one of those laws that gets ignored like not driving on the wrong side of the road, and not having your 6 year old sell candies on the bus, and not drinking while driving a city bus. I know for sure that my old job doesnt exist here. In fact, I have been told that I probably shouldnt discuss my old job in too much detail to people here, because it might result in them not trusting me. With a judge and a law behind me, I know what to do about child abuse. Without that system, I have found myself at a loss. I have found that I have become the well-meaning neighbor who rubs your kid's back when the your other kid hits them, and ignores the cigarette burns she sees there. I have become the passerby who averts her eyes when she sees your chasing your kid into the house with while waving a large stick in the air (the same stick I just saw you grab from your child's hand after he hit the neighbor kid with it), the passerby who cringes at his screams, but does not call the cops to intervene (because what would they say??). I have become the person who sees a teenager kick a kitten and tells her not to, but doesnt actually DO anything to get her to stop. Who have I become?

I thought this experience was going to make me a better person, but sometimes I wonder what effects its really having on me. We were told a story at training of a house warming party that a volunteer had, and a woman who came to the party without her husbands permission. The husband came over, told her to come home, and she ignored him. He came back over and proceeded to beat the woman on the volunteer's porch. When the volunteer tried to intervene, the rest of the community told her it was best not to, for her won safety. A friend of mine told me about a woman who lifted her sunglasses to show a bruised eye in response to a question about domestic violence in her community. I told my friend to go back over and talk to the woman, even just to tell her that someone wants to hear her story. I think thats the right thing to do, to listen. And I WANT to listen to these kids. The problem is, I dont know HOW. I know better than to just bust into their homes and try to stop whats going on, I have been the social worker who hears from a 12 year old that she got whipped even harder after the teacher reported the abuse and her mom found out. So what do I do? How many times can I ask that in one post? What do I do?

I guess all I can do is to help the community in more round about ways. Maybe I can start some kind of afterschool program with some kids? Something to get their minds thinking, to get their self esteem rising, to get their hands moving in peaceful manners. I can keep helping the Mujeres, as they are helping the community. They might not be stopping the kids from getting hit, but putting food on a family's table is better than doing nothing at all. I have been helping the Mujeres in applying for some grants recently--one to get some much needed supplies for the bakery (they make the bread by hand--every step except the baking in the oven is done by the hands of one of two women. Very time consuming, but the machines to make bread are very expensive). The other is to get supplies for the lunch program, like larger pots, cooking spoons, plates, cups, silverware, that kind of stuff (which is also wildly expensive here, which is why I only own about 3 spoons and forks, not a very good thing for a psuedo-hostal owner, but I make sure my guests know that food is not included in their stay). That grant is also for money to cover kids who's families cant pay for their lunch. Also, the US Consulate's office organized a Christmas Food Drive for the Mujeres. They ended up donating over 1000 pounds of food to the lunch program, it was AMAZING. The food wont last for long, but it will allow the lunch program to pay off some debts to the store, and aid in this crazy game of catch-up that is going on. The Mujeres were so happy, the woman who makes all the food for the lunch program started crying. They are just not used to people caring or noticing the work that they do.

They try to teach the kids to be polite when they are getting their food, but saying a simple "Gracias" is something they often need to be reminded to do. Again, I blame it on the malcreado. I noticed the same problem at the Christmas party, some kids didnt say thank you for their gifts, the soda, or the food. And you know what? Neither did most of the parents. I swear I saw one lady come up with a kid to get a bag of candy, and then come back later with a different kid to ask for more. I recognized her, but not the kid, so I told her that I had already given her candy. She said she had two kids, I responded that we didnt have enough for everyone. What I really thought was that we are giving baggies of candy (chewy and hard candy) and even if they both really were her kids, they were both under the age of 3, and really didnt need a baggie of candy each. And that she was a bit malcreada herself for asking.

Ah, this life that I live. Sometimes I just get so frustrated. Sometimes it feels like looking at a huge snowy mountain waiting to be climbed, and all I am wearing is a swimming suit and flipflops. Sometimes I just dont know what to do.

Wow, sorry if that post brought you down a bit, I just read through it myself again. I promise that my Christmas wasnt bad. Thats part 2 to this post: Christmas in Súa with some volunteer friends. I just hope I get the time to get around to writing it...but not today. Hasta Luego, folks.

Theresa